Some notes on hikes and backcountry situations.
Root Glacier (07/2025, AK): Ideal hike — chilly and flat, with primordially cold and pure alpine meltwater running underfoot. Glacier is about two miles from the trailhead in Kennicott. We stayed in McCarthy Cabins and rode in from the footbridge with St. Elias Alpine Guides (who also showed us the ice caves), but the Copper Town Shuttle also runs. Small microspikes were enough for the glacier. There were some potentially fatal crevasses and deep pools. We drank from the water (using a Katadyn), but it could be full of unfilterable heavy metals from mine tailings.
Kalalau Trail (06/2025, HI): Got our permit through Dan at GoKalalau. Parked at a random patch of grass near entry to Ha’ena State Park. Stopped at a stream about 0.5 miles from Hanakoa, refilled water, and turned back for a day hike. Main obstacle here was the heat. Hanakapiai Beach is a paradisical return checkpoint. There’s a nice rock before the descent into Hanakoa where I proposed to my wife.
Mt. Olomana (06/2025, HI): Parking is a mile from trailhead. About 7 hours door to door (with a lot of vibing at Peak 3 and 2 return) — was pretty scrambly after Peak 1, but not too bad uphill. Ran out of water at peak 3, was at least mildly delirious on return. Used plants for traction but had some allergies/irritation afterwards. People die not infrequently on this trail, so definitely keep your wits about you.
Pu’u O Hulu (06/2025, HI): We went right instead of left at trailhead. Turns out that is not the actual trail, so definitely a scrambly uphill situation. The actual trail can be rejoined at the pillboxes, and is a pretty nontechnical descent. Doing this in midday heat is not recommended — definitely had mild heatstroke on the return — but there is a shaved ice spot nearby.
Homebrewed Great Saunter (03/2025, NYC): Not technically a hike, but perimeter of Manhattan is 32 miles (or infinite) in about 13 hours. Requires discipline to stay on schedule — extra 5 minutes at each of 13 hourly checkpoints adds an extra hour to the hike. Felt genuinely unable to walk at the end of this. Left knee was quite worn.
Rila Mountain (09/2020, Bulgaria): Wear high-altitude sunscreen and have shoes with enough traction for a descent over small cascades of slippery rocks. Ride to the trailhead is on a lift which looks like it hasn’t been maintained since the Brezhnev era. But it’s probably safe.
Garibaldi Lakes (06/2018, BC): If I recall, about 4 hours total. The colors at the top are the most vivid greens/blues/turquoises I’ve seen in my life.